It’s tempting to view intimate apparel as the support pieces to your “real” wardrobe, i.e., the stuff everybody sees. However, your lingerie drawer can be a carefully curated collection onto itself. A well-rounded bra wardrobe encompasses everyday styles to complement your clothing, fun styles to express your personality, and practical solutions for specific needs. Like clothing, bras serve different purposes, highlight different features, and utilize different cuts and fits. It can be useful to build a lingerie wardrobe composed of bras and shapewear that make the most of your outfits—not necessarily just “work” underneath them. As a result, I wanted to share several types of bras that can function well within a person’s lingerie drawer.
The T-Shirt Bra
Often a smooth, molded foam cup bra, the T-shirt bra is touted as the bra that works under everything. A seamless design blends under knits, and the foam offers nipple protection. The drawback is the molded cup. T-shirt bras are difficult to fit because they require the breast and cup to have identical shapes—a tough proposition, especially if you’ve lost firmness in your tissue because of pregnancy, weight changes, or age. It’s common for breast tissue to sink to the bottom of the cup, causing gaping at the top and near the strap. Some t-shirt bras eschew the foam cup in favor of an unlined style. These styles use one or two-ply stretch fabric across the cup to enable contouring. Styles without foam fit better and can be excellent alternatives, particularly for soft or pendulous breasts. However, because there is still only one section, they are not immune from fit problems. (Pictured: The Curvy Kate Smoothie)
The Spacer or Memory Foam Bra
Offering a superior fit than molded foam cups while still providing a smooth appearance and moderate nipple coverage, spacer and memory foam bras use softer, more flexible fabrics. Invented by Simone Pérèle in the early 2000s, spacer fabric encapsulates air between two layers of fabric using aerated filament. The result is a cup which blends the benefits from foam and unlined bras for an improved contour across breast shapes. Available in a massive size range, spacer fabric exploded on the lingerie scene with new and improved variations releasing every season. Memory foam, like spacer fabric, boasts a soft hand and flexible fit. Over time, the foam adjusts and contours more to your shape for a bra which only improves with wear. Furthermore, features like lace, patterns on the cup, embroidered wings, keyhole cutouts, and beautiful colors can make either style fashion-forward and fun too. (Pictured: The Elomi Charley Spacer Bra)
The Cut-and-Sew Bra
Cut-and-sew bras, as their name implies, utilize fabrics cut into several pieces and either sewn or heat-bonded together to make the cups. In some cases, the same fabric may be utilized to construct the entire cup whereas in others, the manufacturer may prefer multiple fabrics to customize the fit. With an abundance of styles including basic balconettes and gorgeous plunges, cut-and-sew bras have superior fit, shaping, and lift to molded cups (with or without the foam). Because the cup is composed of multiple pieces of fabric, it contours better to your shape—eliminating gaping issues in the process. The seams act like construction beams to lift, support, and redirect the tissue, and specialized fabrics like stretch lace accommodate asymmetry. Cut-and-sew bras also boast the highest size range with some brands now releasing UK LL (US R) cups in select bands. The downside, unfortunately, is what makes them special: the seams. They do not blend as well under clothes as tee shirt bras do. However, modern styles feature tighter seaming, flat fabrics, less or no embroidery, and careful composition for more discretion. (Pictured: The Goddess Keira Underwired Bra)
The Plunge Bra
Ranging from full to moderate coverage in both molded and cut-and-sew fabrics, plunges are defined by their V-shaped neckline. The cups attach to the straps at an angle and proceed at a gradient toward the center gore rather than straight across as with a balconette. Plunges are excellent for close set breasts, particularly if the center gore is lower and the cups more projected. They often feature straps set further in on the cup to prevent slippage, and some inset the straps on the wings too by employing a “ballet back.” Certain styles like those with a graduated cup or bump pad offer natural, rounded cleavage while others utilize the V-shape for open necklines and lower-cut tops. Anyone with soft, center tissue may experience issues with spillage and should look for moderate to full coverage styles. (Pictured: The b.tempt’d Ciao Bella Contour Bra)
The Balconette Bra
Sometimes called a “balcony bra,” balconettes, like plunges, are available in multiple coverage levels from full to low (known as a “demi”). Unlike plunges, however, balcony bras sport a straighter neckline with the upper cup running more perpendicular to the straps. The straps are frequently set further toward the edge of the shoulders, giving ample exposure of the upper chest (and lower in the case of a demi). In some styles, balconettes achieve their shape using a vertical seam design whereas others will exploit multi-directional seams to adjust the fit, shape, and profile. The balcony shape is also the go-to design for full containment styles because, executed correctly, the fit provides the most coverage and tissue hold of any other style. However, since the straps are usually not as inset as a plunge shape, it can cause problems for people with narrow and/or sloped shoulders, leading to strap slippage. (Pictured: The Fantasie Adrienne Balcony Bra)
The Plunge Balcony Bra
Originally a staple of Fantasie and Freya brands, Plunge Balcony bras combine features from both plunges and balconettes into one composite style. In the original designs, the cups attached perpendicular to the straps before softening into a sweetheart style neckline near the center gore. As a result, the design provides better containment on the upper, outer quadrant of the breast while still offering a more versatile neckline toward the center. Newer variations may see an angled cup attached to the straps with a straighter gore too. The advantage of this style is you wind up with some of the best features of two distinct styles. The vast spacing of the balcony straps is usually narrowed, but you still can see the wider, more open neckline. Sweetheart styles can accommodate center heavy tissue more like a plunge while still providing improved upper hold in moderate to fuller coverage styles too. (Pictured: The Freya Offbeat Plunge Balcony)
The Pretty Set
Never underestimate how a gorgeous piece of lingerie can make you feel. There’s something mood boosting about leaving the house knowing you look and feel great in your bra. If available, consider a matching underwear to complete the set or find a complimentary color or style for a look unique to you. Lingerie textile technology features a range of exciting materials like Chantilly lace, satin or silk for light-catching sheen, ornate embroidery, detachable bondage-inspired straps, keyhole cutouts, and modern, on-trend prints. If you’re more conservative or need bras to be more functional, you can still find beautiful bras. Consider updating your favorite style in a hot new color, or if you need neutrals, look at bras with flat-laying details that add an extra element of fun without compromising wearability. There truly is a fashion style for every taste and every budget. (Pictured: The Gorsenia Allison Set)
The Convertible Bra
Capable of being worn multiple ways, the convertible bra, also known as the strapless bra, can be your saving grace for cocktail or bridal attire as well as for the hot summer months when the neck and shoulders get more screen time. Most newer renditions exploit expert construction and important features to help the bra stay put as you move. For example, many include silicone gel lining the wings as well as at the top interior of the cup, sturdier foam or padding to provide support without straps, side stays to anchor the bra to the body, and multiple strap reattachment places for maximum versatility. The downside is they are only available in certain cup and band sizes, but in the last 10 years alone, the expansion of new sizes and styles is impressive. A well-constructed convertible bra can open you up to a new world of flattering tops and dresses even if you are fuller busted. (Pictured: The Sculptresse Dana)
The Wireless Bra
While some people prefer to wear wireless (or sometimes confusingly known as “soft cup”) bras for medical or comfort reasons, even the underwire lover can find something to enjoy here. Wireless bras focus on finding support through underwire alternatives like side stays, wider elastic bands at the base of the cups, interior slings, and restricted stretch cup fabrics for support. Certain styles incorporate soft textiles and relaxed designs for lounge and sleep while others aim for support comparable to underwires. Wireless bras are also available in a variety of shapes, sizes, and styles. Whether you need a molded cup plunge or a full coverage, cut-and-sew balcony, the options are plentiful! (Pictured: The Anita Havanna Wireless Bra)
The Bralette
Even before the pandemic, bralettes were gaining momentum as a bra alternative for their comfort and aesthetic. Bralettes are generally not bra-sized and favor some version of the Small-Medium-Large system. They are often wireless and subject to the same characteristics as normal bras, i.e., cup shape, coverage, cup material and construction, etc. In fact, there’s an argument to be made (and I’ll gladly make it!) that true bralettes are bras made in general sizes as opposed to specific ones like 38G. If it’s bra-sized, it’s a bra. However, bra-sized styles do seek inspiration from the bralette aesthetic. Bralettes are excellent for people needing or wanting light support, especially those under a DD cup. Sexier options also allow bralettes to be worn with regular clothes as part a fashion component in an outfit. Because the sizing is general, each size will encompass multiple bra sizes. For example, a medium may include: 32DD, 34C, 34D, 36C, 36B, 38A. To accomplish this, the fabrics employ high use of elastic, and the designs themselves may suffer fit problems depending on your actual bra size. They are not available in fuller-cups, but many full-bust companies have made their own versions of “bralettes” in bra-sizes. These mimic those of our smaller busted friends with better construction to support a fuller-bust. (Pictured: The Simone Pérèle Heloise Triangle Bralette)
The Sports Bra
Ranging from low to high impact, the sports bra is a wardrobe essential if you do any kind of exercising because it protects your Cooper’s ligaments. These ligaments maintain your breasts’ health, lift, and shape over time. High impact exercises like running, cross fit, and any activity which involves significant bouncing or movement can damage these ligaments if your breasts are not properly supported and contained. Enter the Sports Bra. Sports bras offer greater levels of control and compression than everyday bras. Available in both wired and wireless styles, they also have useful features like fuller coverage designs, padded straps, racer-back conversion, and moisture-wicking fabric to pull sweat from your body and prevent chafing or rashes. Furthermore, sports can also be useful as everyday bras, especially for people in physically demanding jobs like construction and health care. For more information on sports bras, check out my detailed guide. (Pictured: The Panache Underwire Sports Bra)
The Nursing Bra
While some of us may never need one, a nursing bra is essential for breastfeeding parents. Nursing bras accommodate a fluctuating bust size without compressing sensitive ducts to avoid mastitis. Nursing bras, like normal bras, come in a range of styles from wired to wireless, plunge to balcony, full coverage to low coverage, and so on. However, unlike regular bras, nursing bras have additional features designed to facilitate breastfeeding. If the bra contains an underwire, it’s not a traditional, firmer gauge wire. In fact, most wired nursing bras feature what’s called a “flexi-wire” which you can manipulate easily in your hands. This does interfere with tacking, but it also prevents the heaviness of the wire from causing pain in sensitive breast tissue. Furthermore, all nursing bras come, at minimum, equipped with cups which detach from the straps and fold over for pumping or feeding. Many add slings to support the breast when the primary cup is released. Interior fabrics are soft and non-abrasive both to prevent chafing on the person breast feeding as well as on the face of the baby too. (Pictured: The Cake Croissant Nursing Bra)
