Back in 2019, I wanted to experiment with the Polish brand Nessa because the low price points and cute designs appealed to me both as a consumer and as an inventory buyer for the shop. Several of our core manufacturers increased prices to compete with more luxury-oriented brands, and my fuller-cup customers lost economical options. I snagged this unlined balconette style on clearance, but it was during the weight spiral period. The bra fit too tight, but like the Sculptresse Dana, I knew the situation would resolve itself in two weeks. Don’t be delusional kids. Anyway, I stashed the bra in the review box and now cannot recall the name! Consequently, today’s review is on the bra frame which is the unlined Nessa balconette bra.

If you’re unfamiliar with the term “bra frame,” it’s exactly what it sounds like. A bra frame is the general shape, design, and construction of the bra (the frame) which is recycled from season to season. Lingerie brands utilize recycled frames because it not only saves money but also ensures the core customer base remains loyal. Sometimes brands will tweak an existing frame with different materials and levels of coverage to create a sister style.

For example, if you love the Fantasie Rebecca, anytime the name includes “Rebecca,” the frames are the same with variations in prints, colors, and accessories. Likewise, Panache has the Jasmine, which they offered in neutrals and colors but retooled for other styles like Envy or Chi Chi. The advantage is if you like one frame, you generally know what size and style to purchase again, and if you want to branch out, it’s fair to assume a bra built from a frame you love will work for you too.

Sizing: European 75K/UK 34H/US 34K

Continental Europe cup sizing is similar to North American cup sizing. They start at the letter A and increment one letter until they reach the end of their size range whereas UK cup sizes feature the in-between double letters. If you’re unsure, check out our comprehensive article on bra sizing.

Nessa boasts a pretty impressive size range. I am not sure the full range because it’s hard to find concrete information on the brand if you are not a stockist, but most places carry them from 30 to 44 bands and up to US/European P cup or UK L. Fortunately, North American businesses sell the brand using our band size variation which focuses on inches rather than centimeters. If you order in Europe or from Europe, be mindful of the band size differences.

The 75K is equivalent to my default size of UK 34H. The band is comfortable on the loosest set of hooks, and I do not have any gaping or overflow in the center. The gore tacks in textbook perfect fashion without pressing too hard into my sternum.  

With Polish brands, I usually need to size up at least one band and one cup size, occasionally two or three cup sizes depending on the style. With Nessa, the sizing was a one-to-one correspondence between my US/UK size and their system. This makes shopping the brand significantly easier because you do not need to research and hope you selected the correct size. In the spirit of full disclosure, I read reviews from people who feel the bra runs slightly smaller in the band and cup. With more retailers stateside stocking the Polish import, the risk of choosing the wrong size is greatly mitigated.

Fit

As with other Polish brands, Nessa boasts a lower U-shaped underwire with a narrow gore and projected cups. This is Erica’s Ideal Bra Shape ™. The combination perfectly fits my close set, center heavy tissue, and many full bust people feel the same. My biggest pet peeve with lingerie brands selling bigger cup sizes is the tendency to widen wires, especially in larger cup sizes. Eventually, the wires poke you in the underarms and/or wrap around your back at an awkward, uncomfortable angle.

In the years I was a bra fitter (and hope to be again someday), I did not see many bigger cup people with lots and lots of breast tissue on the side. Most of it was toward the front, and wider center gores and wires often created tacking problems in the front and too much extra space between tissue and wire on the side. If you experience those problems, research Polish brands.

The straps are fully-adjustable in the back, and the sides provide enough width to anchor to the body without being too tall. They taper to three narrow hook-and-eye closures in the back. The cup itself features three sections. A vertical seam unites two lower sections to provide lift while the upper cup is a standard embroidered mesh. The sides sport a flexible stay about an inch behind the underwire for improved support and anchorage.

Aesthetics

Since this style is discontinued and old, I’ll limit my remarks to: it’s a black and white star pattern with beautiful geometric embroidery. Naturally, I love the look. However, Nessa offers neutral variations of the frame as well as fashion variations too. There’s always something new to try each season.

Materials & Price

The materials for the Nessa Balconette Bra are on par with Comexim, the Cleo line from Panache, or Curvy Kate. The lower cup section uses restricted stretch to contain tissue, and the embroidery on the upper cup is well-made. The wings are a stretch Nylon instead of powermesh which, coupled with those side stays, means they will not wear out quickly. Essentially, Nessa is a good midline brand with enough bells and whistles to be interesting without busting your budget.

The price is harder to pin down and varies by where it is sold and who is selling the line. European retailers price them from $40 to $55 while North American retailers are $55 to $70. This is not unusual because even brands like Freya or Curvy Kate are cheaper in Europe as they have to be imported here. Nessa also does not have the distribution infrastructure here in the US like bigger UK or European brands, meaning the small businesses selling the brand absorb the import costs into their margins and price accordingly.

Personally, my suggestion is to support domestic sellers because your purchases encourage them not only to continue stocking the brand but also to be more adventurous in bringing in smaller lines like Nessa. They are assuming a huge amount of risk (and aggravation) to bring you new products and styles to fit your needs, and supporting them translates to more variety for you.

Not to mention, having returned something to Poland once, I can tell you now the shipping costs are super high. If you accidentally order the wrong size, you’re better off selling the bra on E-Bay than trying to return it. There’s less risk involved for everyone if you support local.

Overall

I have yet to find a Polish company I do not like, and I love the fact Nessa has so many unlined options. While I’m not opposed to padded cups, I prefer styles like this because they are lighter weight and fit better. Nessa offers a large selection of these, and the prices are affordable.